The Pampas- We couldn’t leave South America without at least one Drunken Guide Experience.

**We would like to apologize for the delay in Blogs, E-mails, Tweets and whatever else requires the internet.  The internet has been slow (at best) in Bolivia and finding a reliable signal outside of a major city is a chore.**

We traded the cold, mountain climate of La Paz, for the sweltering heat and high humidity of Rurrenabaque. Rurre, (as the locals call it) is located in the Amazon and was the home base for our adventures here.

As usual in Bolivia, getting to our destination was part of the adventure. We decided to spend a little more money in order to avoid a 24 hour bus ride, so we instead took a 35 minute flight. Once we arrived at the airport and saw our plane, we knew this was going to be a little different from your ordinary flight in The States.

The plane was in need of a fresh paint job, and the pilot and co-pilot looked old enough to only have driver’s permits, but we threw caution to the wind and boarded. This plane held only 18 people, and the co-pilot doubled as the flight attendant by making the announcements (luckily, there was no snack and drink service). We were fortunate enough to be in the front two seats, where we had great view of everything that was going on in the cockpit. We could literally see through the front windshield!

Inside the flight to the Amazon - Joe was ready to jump in and help if needed. After all, he does fly remote controlled helicopters.

The flight was somewhat rough and mostly a decent, as we left from 13,000 feet and would arrive at 500 feet in 35 minutes. Soon the peaks of La Paz disappeared and were replaced by a carpet of lush jungle. On approach, we could see a little runway cut into the trees and we nervously watched the pilots concentrate as they landed. I’m sure it was everyday stuff to them, but it was slightly nerve-racking for us.

The Rurrenabaque airport could only handle one plane at a time on their dirt taxi way, and a screen door was all that stood between you and the plane. (Got to love the security.)

Major Hub of Amazonas Airlines - Rurre Airport

Once in the town, we easily booked a hotel for the night of the 31st, but we soon found out that most places had no vacancy for the following evening. Instead of sleeping in the plaza, we decided to just leave for a Pampas (the grasslands) tour on the 1st of January. The early morning start following a late night of New Year celebrations, made Kristen a little hesitant, but we seemed to have no other options. Joe assured Kristen that nothing would go wrong, and in time, he would regret saying that.

We met our driver and guide from Bala Tours early the next morning, and it quickly became evident that our guide had a really good time partying on New Year’s. When we first met him, he seemed to be very hungover, but after a few slurred sentences in Spanish, we realized that he probably walked here from the nearest bar. Our driver was totally with it though, so we felt confident in departing as planned. We figured we had a three-hour drive ahead of us prior to arriving at the Pampas, and that should be plenty of time for our guide to brush it off and catch up on some sleep.

Wrong again. Our guide did sleep on the ride (more like passed out), but it seemed to only give him fuel to continue the party. Once we arrived at the river, we boarded a canoe to ride the rest of the way to the camp. While watching some of the pink dolphins play, we turned around to see him drinking from a bottle while driving the boat. He “cheersed” us, “Feliz Ano Nuevo,” took a shot of who-knows-what, and Kristen shot Joe “the look.”

We arrived at the lodge unscathed, had a delicious lunch, and enjoyed a few hours of down time. The rest of the staff did everything they could to make us comfortable. We again assumed our guide would take advantage of the free time and getting some much-needed rest.

Wrong AGAIN. When we reconvened in two hours to do an exploration with the boat, it seemed that the only thing he had accomplished was finishing that bottle.

Not to fear, the camp owner elected his son to drive the boat, and our guide slurred incoherent sentences at us on the boat ride. It seems all of his English knowledge flew out the window and his drunken Spanish was pretty difficult to decipher. He tried his best to point out animals and tell us about them, but his finger had trouble pointing them out.

Guide: "These birds have 3 stomachs, like a cow." 10 seconds later: "These birds have 3 stomachs.... como una vaca." Repeat 3 more time in 2 minutes, and you get the idea of what that boat ride was like.

Our young driver looked horrified and tried to fill in the gaps where he could . At one point, our guide insisted that the driver turn off the motor. Our driver ignored his multiple requests, so our guide got up and turned it off himself. He then began paddling with an oar, but that quickly went awry, and our driver had to restart the engine.

He insisted on taking our picture. Despite telling us not to worry, "please don't drop the camera!" was all that we were thinking.

At some point in our journey, he must have realized that he was in big trouble. He then told Joe sorry at least a thousand times, and that he would make it up to us. He kept saying this was a practice, and he would give us a “full day” tomorrow. “Full day tomorrow,” became his new chant as we started to return to camp.

Enjoying our boat ride in the Pampas.... wasted guide (behind Kristen's head) and all.

Kristen mentioned that capybaras are one of her favorite animals, and our guide instantly perked up and he claimed to know a spot where they were always found. We instantly sped off and then docked at a little piece of land not far from our camp. The driver walked with us and we scored right away in finding two capys.

First Capy spotted

Our guide was distracted and didn’t even notice the capys. He headed off a little ways and decided that he needed to answer nature’s call. While he was mid-stream about 100 feet away, one of the capybaras that we were looking at loudly grunted, causing our guide to turn, throw his fist in the air, and cheer himself for finding them. Kristen shot Joe another look, but this time while suppressing her giggles at the absolute ridiculousness of the scene.

To say we were a little discouraged was a bit of an understatement, especially after booking with the nicer and more expensive tour company. Even after the day’s events, we held out the hope that he would deliver the goods the next day.

It seems like every tourist that we have talked to has had their own drunken tour guide story, so I guess this will be ours (and hopefully our only one).

Here’s the good news: he totally delivered the next day. We spent 11 hours in our motorized canoe with a sober guide who actually found an amazing amount of animals. He was bound and determined to find every type of animal for us to make up for the day before.

It turned out that he was great at spotting and describing the different wildlife, and he actually made a decent guide. We don’t think he is going to win the guide of the year award, but he more than made up for his previous blunder by taking us to places that people don’t normally get a chance to explore.

We again took far too many pictures, but here is a little photo safari showcasing our day on the river and some of the amazing animals we spotted.

Kristen amazed at the wildlife and beauty

Our guide encouraged us to dangle our feet in the water and splash around when the dolphins were present. When a dolphin came up and touched Kristen’s foot, she shrieked and the dolphin then blew a bunch of bubbles.

Pink Amazon Dolphin

Pink dolphin nose

Another fresh water dolphin.

We also saw many different types of monkeys on our trip.

Red Howler Monkeys

Squirrel Monkey

Mom and Baby

One curious guy

Red Howler

We never thought we would be bird watchers, but on this trip we have encountered so many different birds that it hard not to become one.

Blue and yellow Macaw - from far away

Macaws in flight - No, not a Barn Swallow.

Owl

Amazing Heron

Crazy three stomached bird in flight

We also saw a few Caiman and other swimming creatures.

Little Caiman eyes

Big Caiman

Turtles

Always room for another of Kristen’s favorites.

Capy (The world's largest rodent!)

Beautiful view on the river. The water during this time of the year creates a perfect black mirror. (And yes, just thinking that got the Arcade Fire song stuck in my head.)

Amazing reflection

Our greatest find was made by Kristen on our way back from our long day. This three-toed sloth was only a few months old, and he was making his way up a vine for a snack (or more sleep).

Young three-toed sloth

Once the sloth was spotted, our guide was satisfied that we had seen everything there is to see (minus a jaguar), and we headed back.

Later that night we took the boat out to look for caiman.  When you shine a light at the caiman, their eyes have an amazing glow, and it was a bit eerie to see the reflection in absolute darkness.

Caiman eyes glowing in the distance

One of the biggest adventures in the Pampas was just heading to the bathroom in our camp.  You were guaranteed to find at least three frogs per stall, and sometimes more.  Using the restroom while trying not to get eaten by mosquitos or have a frog land on you was a new and “interesting” experience.

Friendly shower frog

Tree frogs were found in the bathroom too!

One night Kristen happened upon a tarantula which was as big as her hand.

A bit blurry, but I was shaking taking the picture.

This is not the actual tarantula Kristen found, but after some teasing from Joe about the “actual” size, she was determined to locate another one.  This one was found under some stones and was truly as big as your hand, if not bigger.

The Pampas turned out to be an incredible place, even after our rocky start.  Although starting on New Year’s Day was risky, we didn’t see many other people and we seemed to have the whole area to ourselves (which is quite different from most other travelers’ experiences in the Pampas).  The wildlife was great and the Amazon lived up to all our expectations.

For more pictures of animals spotted in the jungle, feel free to check out www.joeandkristenfry.shutterfly.com. (More pictures from the Pampas are in the Bolivia folder.)

Now, off to the jungle.

Advertisements

About shoefry

Taking off for a year to see what the world has to offer.
This entry was posted in Bolivia and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

17 Responses to The Pampas- We couldn’t leave South America without at least one Drunken Guide Experience.

  1. Bridget says:

    HAHA. I was laughing so hard reading this post!
    Due to the overwhelming amount of animal photos in this post, I’d have to say it’s my favorite so far… CAPYS, SLOTHS, AND PINK DOLPHINS?! It’s settled.. I must go there.
    So funny about the frogs in the bathroom too! …Not so funny about the tarantulas.

  2. Dee says:

    Great post. Experiences of a lifetime, for sure. And great photos. Thanks for sharing.

    And another great transportation story (the airplane) to keep folks back home awake at night.

    Take care.

  3. Mom says:

    Well, I guess I won’t be showing G’Ma about this adventure. I guess it could have been worse, it could have been the pilot that had the hangover.

    I cannot get over the incredible pictures. I hope you two realize what an amazing life you are leading. This cruise had to be a highlight….it was almost as good as the Jungle Cruise at Disneyland we went on last week!

    I can imagine that keeping this blog going takes a great deal of effort, but you will not regret it. This truly is a trip of a lifetime.

    Stay safe. Miss you both.
    MOM

  4. Tee says:

    I can’t believe how drunk the guy looks in the mere half picture he’s in! So funny. And that heron looks like Kevin from Up.

    That trip looks so cool. You jerks are spending so much time in Bolivia. I am jealous and ready to fly back down there.

  5. Kerri says:

    From Trevor: “Thank you for the pictures. The turtles were my favorite. I thought the crocodile was funny. I did not want to swim with it. I liked the howler monkeys. Where did you see the animals? Did you go on the Jungle Cruise and see them? Where did you see the Howler monkeys? Where did you get the pictures? Have a good time at your house.”

    From Kerri: Thanks for entertaining my kids with that post. Kudos to Kristen for not slipping in an “I told you so.” Hope to talk to you guys soon! Love ya!

  6. Aunt Julie says:

    I’m glad it didn’t turn into an episode of “I Shouldn’t Be Alive”
    Enjoying hearing about each new adventure – keep it comin

  7. Pingback: Welcome to the Jungle! | shoefry

  8. Pingback: Welcome to the Jungle! | shoefry

  9. Melissa says:

    I have decided you need to bring me back a monkey or a sloth, which ever will clear customs the easiest will do! Looks like you are still having fun and living on the edge. I too have an experience with a drunk/high tour guide. I guess that is just what they do! Miss you guys and can’t wait for you to come home!

  10. Pingback: Bolivia’s Beer and More… | shoefry

  11. Pingback: The Wild, Wild West (of Bolivia) | shoefry

  12. Pingback: Bolivia: Final Thoughts | shoefry

  13. Pingback: San Pedro de Atacama: Welcome to Chile! Now, hand over your wallet. | shoefry

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s